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Written by Gillian
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Just off the coast of Tunisia is the sizeable island of Jerba, known in legends as the ‘Land of the Locust Eaters’. Ferries carry passengers over from Jorf, on mainland Tunisia, to the port of Ajim. As with many islands in warm tropical waters, Jerba is a popular tourist resort. There are plenty of Europeans here, whenever you visit, but also a good mix of Libyans and Tunisians. There is a tourist zone, but the real Jerba becomes apparent in the many villages scattered over the island.
Most visitors stay at Aghir which is where the majority of the hotels line the private beach. There is still an area of beach which is open to the public and it is well used by local Tunisians. Aghir has a lively nightlife and is good value for money if you are looking for decent accommodation.
One of the prettiest towns on Jerba is Houmt Souq which is on the coast and has two bustling markets. One market sells food and the other souk extends down to a local square. Here you will find some delightful outdoor cafes which have great local food at very reasonable prices. This town is one of the best places for eating out, if you want a change from the tourist hotel restaurants.
Many Tunisians stay in the local ‘funduqs’ which have been the traditional hostels for many hundreds of year. The rooms here are very reasonable and you will find yourself staying in a vaulted room with simple furnishing, and doors which open onto a courtyard of plants and flowers with maybe a small pool or fountain. Sometimes the courtyard is the site of the local restaurant or where traditional music may be performed. These hotels are a wonderful way to experience the real Tunisia and are priceless for giving a true picture of local life. Houmt Souq also has a pretty church, several mosques and a fort.
A trip to Ajim is an education in itself. Each morning fisherman can be seen lifting their lines of clay pots from the seabed – and pulling out the octopuses which hide there overnight. Sponges are another catch and make an interesting and useful souvenir.
The village of Guellala is where pottery skills are demonstrated using a kick-wheel, and pottery and tiles can be haggled for. Whether you stay for a day or a week, the island of Jerba has a lot to offer, provided you are prepared to leave the hotel poolside and do a little exploring! |
