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Written by Gillian
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Kairouan is one of the most popular excursion destinations for visitors and the pièce de résistance of this holy city is the Great Mosque. It is also known as the Sidi Okba Mosque after its founder. Head to the north eastern corner of the medina by following the city wall to the left at the back of Zaouia of Sidi Abid el Ghariani. If you want to quietly absorb the grand interior of the Mosque, it is worth arriving early in the morning. You need to be properly attired and robes are available at the entrance.
 Enter the thick buttressed walls through the decorative gates, like so many pilgrims before and prepare to be surprised. Although it looks like a military stronghold the present building was built in the 9th century by the Aghlabids, and was indeed built to withstand a siege or two. The three storey 35metre high (114 feet) minaret doubled up as a look out tower.
Look around the huge sahn or courtyard, with its six different gates and try to envisage 200,000 people crowded in here. There are hundreds of pillars from all over the world which form the colonnade. Note that the paving stones slope to a drain where sudden precious rainfall is quickly channeled into the underground cisterns. There is a large sundial here and a platform decorated with Kufic script. Notice the carved detail too on the wooden door panels leading into the prayer-hall. Non-muslims cannot enter this sacred area, but are allowed to look through the doorway.
Inside there are beautifully tiled mosaic floors and rows of marble, onyx and granite pillars – each one different from the next. The lofty arches are quite impressive, even in the gloom and you may be able to see the arched niche called the Mirhab which indicates the direction of Mecca. Look for the fabulously carved cedar staircase and the blue and white carpet, a gift from Saudi Arabia. No matter what your belief, the Mosque is an impressive work which has stood the test of time for centuries, and will no doubt continue to stand for many more. |
