The Islands of Kerkenah lie just off the east coast of Tunisia, a short boat ride out of Sfax. The area is popular with locals, holiday makers and day trippers. These somewhat desolate islands rise just 15 metres (50 feet) above the Mediterranean Sea and as nothing grows here apart from some hardy wild palms, everything has to be caught or imported.

In the 1960s as Tunisia’s tourism industry really began to grow, developers built some small hotels along the north coast at Sidi Fredj. This ‘Zone Touristique’ was certainly well chosen for its white sand beach and turquoise waters lined with leaning palm trees. The Hotel Grand and the Farhat are the main hotels here along with some holiday clubs, but the tiny beach, although idyllic, is very small and at times overcrowded. The waters look inviting for a swim, but you have to wade out a long, long way to get any depth for swimming. Most guests choose to use the hotel pools in preference to these disadvantages. However, the shallow calm waters are excellent for windsurfing and offer safe bathing for children.

There are some sights to explore on the islands, which can easily be reached by bicycle. About 1 ½ miles away from the hotels is the restored El Hissar fortress which is interesting, along with two other crumbling Turkish forts. Other pursuits are mostly water based. Boat trips around the islands are very pleasant and popular. Often locals take visitors to a quieter area, drop anchor and while guests sunbathe and hunt for seashells the guides cook a fish lunch on the seashore. Fresh sardines and mullet never tasted so good! 

The local economy on Kerkenah is based on sponges and mullet fishing. You may see locals beat the water and the fish leap onto the flat traps laid out on the water. Octopus and squid are also caught in clay pots which they creep into overnight. The island does have a few local shops and a bank at Er Remla which the single road leads to. For those who want a beach holiday in an unusual location, Sidi Fredj may be a more interesting option than the more commercialized resorts on Tunisia’s mainland.