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Written by Gillian
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 The small Tunisian town of Testour is about 60 miles south west of Tunis, close to Dougga in the northern part of the Tell. The road itself makes an interesting journey as it passes through tiny settlements, each with their local motor garage, roadside kebab stall and coffee house where the men gather socially. Testour itself is an attractive town with a laid-back pace of life. It is situated on the slopes of a small hill and the main road loops around it giving good views as you approach.
It is certainly better planned than many historic Tell villages, mainly because it was built in the 17th century by refugees from Andalusia. It consequently has a unique Southern Spanish charm and character. The founders of Testour were industrious and wealthy people who took a pride in their new home, building mosques and bath houses with pride and imagination. The mosques here are particularly finely decorated using traditional skills. The Great Mosque stands at the head of the main thoroughfare and has recently been extensively restored. At the opposite end of the main street is the Zaouia of Sidi Nasir El Barouchi. A zaouia is traditionally a religious school or monastery. It is situated alongside the tomb of this holy man who died in 1733. It is still used as a shrine, frequently visited by local women seeking pregnancy and those in need of divine help. Another notable building in the town is the Maison du Culture, built by a wealthy Jew for his mistress. The story of scandal is that he lost his heart to her, then his fortune and finally committed suicide. There is also a factory in the town which produces thousands of beautiful glazed tiles which are used in many public buildings and mosques throughout Tunisia. If you are visiting Testour in June you may enjoy the international festival of maloof music. Close by, at Ain Tounga are some remarkable Byzantine artifacts including towers and gateways bearing Latin inscriptions rather than the more usual Greek ones. |