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Written by Gillian
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Mahdia is just a little way down the Tunisian coast from the tourist hotspots of Sousse and Monastir, but it is a world away in terms of lifestyle and local experience. I hesitate to recommend Mahdia as a day out, as you can truly spend 3 or 4 days exploring the different aspects of this ancient city, but a day is better than nothing!
Mahdia was once the capital of the Muslim world. The first Fatimid ruler declared himself the ‘Mahdi’, the last prophet of Islam, but that is another story. Although the Fatimids later moved their centre to Egypt, Mahdia has remained an important city for over ten thousand years.
As you enter the gates of this walled city, note the thickness of the walls that have ensured their survival through the centuries. They are over ten feet thick! Set beside the ocean, it was a massive fortress, although the Spanish did bring down some of the walls in the 16th century. The walls seem to envelop the history of this ancient town and instill a sense of respect and awe for this amazing culture. The streets are still narrow, opening out from time to time into small squares.
Locals scurry about their business of fishing, drinking tea and weaving. In fact Mahdia produces almost all the wedding cloth for the whole of Tunisia and beyond. As you walk along the cobbled street, look at the architecture around you. The doorways in particular are far more ornate than elsewhere in Tunisia and are well worth a photograph.
The Great Mosque of Mahdia is perhaps a little disappointing. Although it has been reconstructed since the 9th century, it has lost some of its original uniqueness and appears almost like a model. It is also only open on special occasions so visitors rarely get a chance to glimpse beyond the triumphal arch entranceway.
There is a Big Fortress, which is impressive by its size, but it is very plain inside. It has great views over the city and the remains of the old Port. The nearby cemetery records the long association between Mahdia and the sea, with graves of sailors, pirates and fishermen all looking out to sea, as is the tradition here.
There is an archeological museum which is well worth a visit and gives respite from the hot sun. The fish market is also an interesting place to visit, especially if live octopuses are on the menu! Finally walk to the lighthouse, which marks the easterly point of the Cap d’Afrique. It is a great place to rest awhile and ponder over all the sights you have seen in Mahdia.
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