Kairouan is the most important religious centre in Tunisia. It is the fourth most holy city in the world after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem and is still a place of pilgrimage for devout Muslims. The major festival in Kairouan is Mouloud, a celebration of the Mohammed’s birthday, which does vary in date according to the lunar calendar.

At this time Sunni Moslems from all over the world will visit the town which is bedecked with flags and light decorations.

Kairouan is just an hour’s drive from Monastir but it is another world in its dusty, inhospitable terrain. Guests will need to buy a ticket from the Tourist Office to be allowed to enter the old city. As well as the Great Mosque there are several other religious sites which can be visited, but visitors must wear appropriate clothing to be allowed in. Shorts are taboo, and women should cover their shoulders and wear long dresses or skirts below the knee.

For a tour of the main mosques of Kairouan, the restored 14^th century Zaouia of Sidi Abid El Ghariani is just after Bab Ech Chouhada, the main gate into the medina. Beyond the antechamber is the main atrium with the usual colonnade with various rooms off on each side. The lower walls are covered with tiles painted in beautiful geometric patterns making a colourful wall of greens, orange and blue. The Mihrab can be seen in the centre of the eastern wall, which indicates the direction of Mecca towards which all Muslims should face when praying. This is surrounded by an impressive black and white horseshoe shaped arch made of marble which in turn surrounds the stuccoed plaster in the shape of a peacock’s fan. The beautiful detail of this delightful little mosque includes some detailed wood carving decoration and an ornate tomb of the 16^th century Hafsid sultan, Moulay Hassan. 

The next stop should be the Mosque of the Three Doors which is not open to the public. However the triple doors of this 9^th century mosque are surrounded by beautiful carved stonework in intricate patterns, along with verses of the Koran.

The most impressive monument in Kairouan is the Great Mosque, but before entering, look at the whitewashed graveyard in front of the city walls which makes a great photograph. The Great Mosque itself is impressive with buttressed walls, ornamental gates and a fine minaret towering above the city. The wooden doors to the prayer hall are particularly worthy of note and the huge courtyard can accommodate 200,000 people. Beautiful marble pillars were brought from all over the Roman Empire and can be seen through the doorway beneath the huge mosque lamps. The mirhab here is beautifully detailed. 

Finally, the most impressive and beautiful mosque in North Africa is the Zaouia of Sidi Sahab. Also known as the Mosque of the Barber, the colourfully painted tiled walls, ornate doorways, columns and intricate decoration are a suitable burrial place for the tomb of Sidi Shab.