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Written by Gillian
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Traveling north from Tunis, tourism decreases and the real Tunisia emerges. Glorious countryside and ancient sites are brought to life with local shepherds, fishermen and burdened donkeys all going about their daily chores.
Utica is about 20 miles (32km) north of Tunis. Travel by back road if you can, and use the local bus service – an experience in itself – if you do not have a car. Utica’s ruins are mainly Roman with Phoenician origins. The site was not truly excavated until the 1940s when to great excitement a Punic floor was discovered beneath a first century Roman floor, which in itself was beneath a 2nd century mosaic! The original Punic floor was red cement inlaid with tiny white marble pieces. The Roman floor was black and white marble and this was beneath the flower-patterned mosaic floor. As Utica is thought to date back to 1101BC, imagine how many changes this city has seen!
Another interesting fact about Utica is that it was once an important Phoenician Port, long before the Mejerda Rover silted up and forced the sea to gradually retreat. It is now 6 miles (10km) inland. Always trying to outdo its near neighbour, Carthage, Uthica sided with Rome against Carthage in 149AD and was rewarded by being made the capital of Roman Africa – hard to believe of this quiet town today.
Enough of the history. On arriving in Utica, the small but charming site is set on a rise overlooking the river plain. There are wooden planks in places, which the curious should lift and look beneath. The wood is protecting the original mosaics which are quite gorgeous. The largest mosaics are in the House of Cascades, marked by a group of cypress trees. The fishing scenes are thought to have been made between AD69-96. This large house would have been one of the grand villas of the wealthy inhabitants of the town at that time. Step through the doorway and see the splendid pink, orange and green marbles, brought from Simitthu (now called Chemtou) and Greece.
Sarcophagi with Egyptian amulets, vases and household items were discovered in Utica, some of which are on display in the Museum here and in nearby Bardo. |
