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Written by Gillian
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Beja is approximately 110 km west of Tunis, in the north western region of Tunisia. It is set in a green and fertile area of the country. The drive to Beja, or the rail journey, takes you through some of the most impressive mountain regions and past many tree-lined hills, primitive local farms and vineyards.
Each Tunisian city tends to have the same attractions – a kasbah, a souk, a medina and a mosque, but in Beja all these features are quite outstanding. For example the Kasbah, or fortress in Beja is quite huge, and until 2007 was actually in use as a military base. It is accessed from a steep stepped lane and dates back to the Byzantine period. Beja was at that time called Theodoriana after the Emperor’s wife. The original fortress is now in ruins and includes a keep and two round towers, but the walls and present-day fortress are complete. From the top of the Kasbah there are magnificent views of the town and surrounding countryside.
The Medina, or old town, is quite run-down and in need of some TLC, but at the same time, it is also one of the most authentic in Tunisia. Colourful doors and canopies provide a splash of decoration. The market is noisy and lively, providing for most of the locals’ needs rather than providing specifically for tourists. Spices are a great buy here, measured out and handed over in a cone-shaped bag. Some spice traders may still seal the plastic over a candle flame, which is quite an art.
The Great Mosque certainly lives up to its name. It is a very impressive building and has a newly built minaret which is a most unusual red color.
Beja offers a few local bars and restaurants, the emphasis being on the word ‘local’. Beja is a typical working Tunisian city, not a tourist trap, and that has some advantages and some disadvantages. Women traveling alone will not be comfortable in the bars here, but otherwise tourists are accepted and welcomed. |
